In this first tutorial we will realize the so-called Orton effect with photoflow.
First of all, open an exisiting image (TIFF or JPEG). The photoflow interface should look like here below: a preview window on the left, some controls to change the zoom level and the previw mode below it, and a widget showing the layer structure on the right. Below the layer widget you have the buttons that let you add a new layer (marked with '+'), a new group layer (the 'G+' button) and a button to remove the selected layer (marked with '-').
The next step is to add a group layer that will contain all the Orton effect adjustments. Click on the 'G+' button to open the group layer configuration dialog. Set the layer blending mode to 'normal' (so that we will be able to change its opacity and therefore the overall strength of the Orton effect) and give it a meaningful name.
The first layer that we will add into the group is a 'buffer layer'. You can think of it as a kind of 'alias' for whatever lies below the buffer in the layer stack. Why this is useful will hopefully become clear a bit later. For the moment, keep in mind that the buffer tool has a negligible impact in terms of memory and cpu time, therefore you can insert as many of such layers as you need.
In the buffer layer configuration dialog, we set the name to 'orton input' (or whatever you like), the blend mode to passthrough and the target channel to 'RGB', as shown below.
The first real step to reproduce the Orton effect is to blend a copy of the original image with itself in 'sceen' mode. This will result in an image with increased brightness.
Actually, in photoflow the images are never kept entirely into memory, therefore it is not 'technically' possible to make a copy of a given layer. However, photoflow provides a powerful 'clone' tool that allows to reuse the pixels of a givel layer somewhere else in the processing pipeline, without allocating additional memory.
This is what we are going to use for the 'screen' blend: select the buffer layer you just created in the previous step, click on the '+' button to open the tools list and select the the one collaed 'Clone layer'.
In the clone layer configuration dialog, we set the name to 'screen blend' (just to remember what this layer is for) and the blend mode to 'screen'. The configuration dialog contains a drop-down list to select the layer that should be cloned; here we need to choose the one called 'Orton effect/orton input', i.e. the 'orton input' layer found inside the 'Orton effect' group. The preview image should look brighter than before, and the configuration dialog should look like this:
The next step of the Orton effect requires to make a out-of-focus (blurred) copy of the screen blend result and to blend it again in multiply mode. This involves two separate edits (the cloning and the blurring) and therefore it cannot be achieved with one single layer. Instead, we will create a new group layer inside which we will put the clone and gaussian blur layers; setting the blend mode of the group layer to 'multiply' will give the desired result.
First, add a new group layer above the screen blend layer, and call it 'Blurred'; set the blend mode to 'multiply'.
Then, add a new clone layer inside thr 'Blurred' group. Select the 'Orton effect/screen blend' layer in the drop-down menu and set the blend mode to 'passthrough', as shown below:
Next we add a gaussian blur layer above the screen blend clone. Set the radius to 7 pixels and the blend mode to passthrough (the value of the blur radius depends on the resolution of the image and on the effect you want to achieve; experiment with higher or lower values and check the result in the preview window until you are satisfied).
The final result should look like in the screenshot below. You can reduce the strength of the effect by double-cliking on the 'Orton effect' group layer and adjusting the 'opacity' value below 100.
Saving and exporting: in order not to loose all your hard work, and to be able to tweak the settings in the future, you can save the edited image in photoflow's own format. To do that, click on the 'Save as' button and choose a proper file name with the '.pfi' extension. Photoflow will generate a PFI file in XML format, which stores the layer structure and the associated layer and tool settings. No raster data is saved into the PFI file; instead, you have to keep a copy of the original input file on your had disk. Whenever you will re-open the PFI file, the input image will be read again and all adjustments will be re-applied on the fly. The advantage is that the PFI file is a simple text file with a very small size, which gets save very quickly. Hence, you can keep several versions of your editing without accupying much disk space, and without ever touching your original input image.
There is just one limitation: you should not change the location of the original input image on your hard drive, otherwise photoflow will not be able to open it correctly when reading the PFI file.
Let me now try to show you the importance of putting a buffer layer at the bottom of the 'Orton effect' group. Select the background layer, and then add an 'Invert' layer on top of it. The result is what one would expect: the Orton effect is applied to the inverted input image. That would not have been the case if we had cloned directly the background layer in the screen blend step. In other words, using a buffer layer as the input of the Orton effect lets you apply the effect to whatever is the merged result of the layers below it. Toggle the visibility of the invert layer (using the checkbox at the left of the layer name) to see what I mean.
Moreover, if you change the input image (for that you have to double-click on the background layer and choose a different file name in the configuration dialog that will pop-up) the change will be automatically propagated to all the adjustment layers, and the Orton effect will be correctly applied to the new image. This is another advantage of the fully non-destructive processing pipeline used by photoflow.
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First of all, open an exisiting image (TIFF or JPEG). The photoflow interface should look like here below: a preview window on the left, some controls to change the zoom level and the previw mode below it, and a widget showing the layer structure on the right. Below the layer widget you have the buttons that let you add a new layer (marked with '+'), a new group layer (the 'G+' button) and a button to remove the selected layer (marked with '-').
The next step is to add a group layer that will contain all the Orton effect adjustments. Click on the 'G+' button to open the group layer configuration dialog. Set the layer blending mode to 'normal' (so that we will be able to change its opacity and therefore the overall strength of the Orton effect) and give it a meaningful name.
The first layer that we will add into the group is a 'buffer layer'. You can think of it as a kind of 'alias' for whatever lies below the buffer in the layer stack. Why this is useful will hopefully become clear a bit later. For the moment, keep in mind that the buffer tool has a negligible impact in terms of memory and cpu time, therefore you can insert as many of such layers as you need.
In the buffer layer configuration dialog, we set the name to 'orton input' (or whatever you like), the blend mode to passthrough and the target channel to 'RGB', as shown below.
The first real step to reproduce the Orton effect is to blend a copy of the original image with itself in 'sceen' mode. This will result in an image with increased brightness.
Actually, in photoflow the images are never kept entirely into memory, therefore it is not 'technically' possible to make a copy of a given layer. However, photoflow provides a powerful 'clone' tool that allows to reuse the pixels of a givel layer somewhere else in the processing pipeline, without allocating additional memory.
This is what we are going to use for the 'screen' blend: select the buffer layer you just created in the previous step, click on the '+' button to open the tools list and select the the one collaed 'Clone layer'.
In the clone layer configuration dialog, we set the name to 'screen blend' (just to remember what this layer is for) and the blend mode to 'screen'. The configuration dialog contains a drop-down list to select the layer that should be cloned; here we need to choose the one called 'Orton effect/orton input', i.e. the 'orton input' layer found inside the 'Orton effect' group. The preview image should look brighter than before, and the configuration dialog should look like this:
The next step of the Orton effect requires to make a out-of-focus (blurred) copy of the screen blend result and to blend it again in multiply mode. This involves two separate edits (the cloning and the blurring) and therefore it cannot be achieved with one single layer. Instead, we will create a new group layer inside which we will put the clone and gaussian blur layers; setting the blend mode of the group layer to 'multiply' will give the desired result.
First, add a new group layer above the screen blend layer, and call it 'Blurred'; set the blend mode to 'multiply'.
Then, add a new clone layer inside thr 'Blurred' group. Select the 'Orton effect/screen blend' layer in the drop-down menu and set the blend mode to 'passthrough', as shown below:
Next we add a gaussian blur layer above the screen blend clone. Set the radius to 7 pixels and the blend mode to passthrough (the value of the blur radius depends on the resolution of the image and on the effect you want to achieve; experiment with higher or lower values and check the result in the preview window until you are satisfied).
The final result should look like in the screenshot below. You can reduce the strength of the effect by double-cliking on the 'Orton effect' group layer and adjusting the 'opacity' value below 100.
Saving and exporting: in order not to loose all your hard work, and to be able to tweak the settings in the future, you can save the edited image in photoflow's own format. To do that, click on the 'Save as' button and choose a proper file name with the '.pfi' extension. Photoflow will generate a PFI file in XML format, which stores the layer structure and the associated layer and tool settings. No raster data is saved into the PFI file; instead, you have to keep a copy of the original input file on your had disk. Whenever you will re-open the PFI file, the input image will be read again and all adjustments will be re-applied on the fly. The advantage is that the PFI file is a simple text file with a very small size, which gets save very quickly. Hence, you can keep several versions of your editing without accupying much disk space, and without ever touching your original input image.
There is just one limitation: you should not change the location of the original input image on your hard drive, otherwise photoflow will not be able to open it correctly when reading the PFI file.
Let me now try to show you the importance of putting a buffer layer at the bottom of the 'Orton effect' group. Select the background layer, and then add an 'Invert' layer on top of it. The result is what one would expect: the Orton effect is applied to the inverted input image. That would not have been the case if we had cloned directly the background layer in the screen blend step. In other words, using a buffer layer as the input of the Orton effect lets you apply the effect to whatever is the merged result of the layers below it. Toggle the visibility of the invert layer (using the checkbox at the left of the layer name) to see what I mean.
Moreover, if you change the input image (for that you have to double-click on the background layer and choose a different file name in the configuration dialog that will pop-up) the change will be automatically propagated to all the adjustment layers, and the Orton effect will be correctly applied to the new image. This is another advantage of the fully non-destructive processing pipeline used by photoflow.
What used to scare me about editing photos is that everything I did to my images seemed so final.
I was using very low-tech editors like Picasa or Windows Photo Viewer and whatever changes I made were made forever because the original file was overwritten.
If I cropped an image, then I lost the data I cropped out.
If I made an image black and white, I could say goodbye to the color version.
I started feeling like this was a really dumb thing to do, so my next step was to simply make copies of every image I wanted to edit and then save the changes to the copy, leaving the original intact. But that takes up space and then you have two files of basically the same image floating around. Kind of a hassle to organize and keep straight.
Even though space is becoming less of an issue, I still knew there had to be a better way. So, what was my solution? It was an all-in-one image organizer and non-destructive editor.
Let’s go deeper into what an image organizer and non-destructive editor is and why it’ll help you. Wiso steuer: 2020 v10 04 1722.
There are so many things I love about using non-destructive editors, and one of them is their ability to let you make adjustments to your images without harming the original. It basically lets you go back at any time to the original file you downloaded from your camera without you needing to make an additional copy of the file.
Programs like Lightroom and Aperture do just that. They simply store your adjustments in a database as a set of instructions to apply to the image if you ever need or want to save and use your images outside of the program.
Here are the main benefits of using a non-destructive editor like Lightroom or Aperture.
1. You Can Always Go Back to the Original
In my scenario above, if I crop an image or tweak it in some way, the original photo is overwritten and whatever changes I make are now permanent.
Effect Stack 1 0 2 – Non Destructive Image Editor Example
With a non-destructive editor, the same changes would all be reversible. You can essentially undo everything and start back at the beginning with your unedited image.
Take this image, for example. It started out in color but say I wanted to try out black and white. I can make some adjustments in Lightroom and then see how it looks. All of my edits are displayed in the order I applied them as a stack in the “History” panel on the left (see image below).
Now let’s say I’m not liking the black and white conversion. I can simply click on the starting point in the History panel (left arrow below) and it will undo adjustments up to that point (in this case, the “Update to Current Process” is the beginning step). Or, alternatively, I can click on the “Reset” button (bottom right arrow below).
Fireplace live hd 3 0 0 download free. Now it’s as if I haven’t done any adjustments to my image and can start over new.
2. Save Space
Another great thing about Lightroom is that the changes you make don’t really take up all that much extra room.
All Lightroom does is save your adjustments as a set of instructions in its database. None of these edits (adjustments) are actually applied to your photos until you export or save your image for use outside of Lightroom. Once you do export, your adjustments, along with keywords, ratings, etc., will be applied to your images.
So, instead of my old-school method of creating a duplicate copy of the original and then altering the copy, I can still have an edited file and Tenorshare 4ukey keygen. have access to my original image, too. Just in case I want it.
And all of this takes up very little extra space on your Hard Drive (provided you don’t export two copies of your file (one being the original and one being the edited version, which would defeat the whole purpose, anyway).
You may be wondering why you couldn’t just use Photoshop, instead.
For a few reasons I think Lightroom or Aperture are far better.
- Photoshop is expensive. Not everyone can afford Photoshop but Lightroom and Aperture are pretty reasonable. I purchased Lightroom 4 for $105 and it does so much for my overall photo editing and management.
- Photoshop’s hard to learn. In my opinion, a program like Lightroom is much easier to learn (I’ve yet to use Aperture, though I’ve been told it’s very similar to Lightroom). I learned how to use Lightroom quickly and now feel really comfortable with it. Photoshop, on the other hand, is quite elaborate and I still don’t know what a good number of tools do or how to use them effectively.
- Not all Photoshop tools are non-destructive. I don’t exactly know which tools/methods are non-destructive and which aren’t, but for most people’s needs, I think Lightroom or Aperture will be more than sufficient and it’s a much safer route.
- Photoshop doesn’t help you organize your photos. I LOVE that I’m much more organized with Lightroom. Instead of using long filenames to describe an image, I can simply add keywords and easily find images later.
Effect Stack 1 0 2 – Non Destructive Image Editor Software
I will say that if you have the extra cash and if you really want to give some of your images the extra punch, then Photoshop is a great way to polish them off.
Effect Stack 1 0 2 – Non Destructive Image Editor Windows 10
Lightroom and Aperture’s nondestructive editing methods can help you save space, are easier and more intuitive to learn, and will let you undo any changes you made. And it’s way cheaper than something like Photoshop and more full-featured than free programs. I don’t think you can go wrong.